Old Jewish Cemetery

Prague’s Old Jewish Cemetery is the oldest Jewish cemetery in Europe, and one of the few which remained unscathed by Nazis during World War II. Situated in the original Jewish ghetto, more than 100,000 Jews were buried in this small plot, although the number of tombstones is approximately 12,000. It is a humbling sensation to stand in the midst of 100,000 deceased. Due to the cemetery’s confined surface area, bodies had to be buried on top of one another. Some of the graves are as much as twelve layers deep. Even in the midst of the hustle and bustle of central Prague, the Old Jewish Cemetery remains a kind of sanctuary. It is gated off from the rest of the Jewish Quarter, adding to its sense of isolation and calm. For more than 300 years, generations of Jews were laid to rest here, leaving us centuries later with a perfectly in-tact time capsule of Prague’s Jewish history.

The oldest known tombstone is that of writer Rabbi Avigdor Kara who died in 1439, and the most recent is that of Moses Beck, buried in 1787. Starting in the late 16th century, the tombstones were marked with symbols and emblems to indicate the family name, profession, or background of the deceased. For example, an engraving of a pair of scissors indicates that the person was a tailor. The legendary Rabbi Low’s tomb is the most famous and most popular in the cemetery. During his lifetime (1520-1609) it is said that the rabbi formed a creature out of mud from the banks of the Vltava, and brought it to life. This creature, the golem, aided Rabbi Low in his campaign against the anti-Semites in the royal court. However, the rabbi lost control over the golem and had to take its life. Outside the cemetery, souvenir stands sell figurines of the golem, a small commemoration to one of Prague’s oldest legends.

Entrance to the Old Jewish Cemetery is included in the ticket to the Jewish Museum, but separate tickets are also sold for those who only want to visit the cemetery. The cemetery opens at 9 am, and it is best to get there early as this is one of the most highly visited places in Prague. The last admission is 30 minutes before closing time (which varies according to the season) so it is best to allow yourself plenty of time to peruse the grounds. Also, unlike the other attractions which compose the Jewish Museum, cameras are permitted at the Old Jewish Cemetery.